Torque (Nm), clutch and chuck: how to choose a cordless drill and screwdriver.
1) Drill vs. screwdriver: it starts with the function
Leroy Merlin summarizes: a drill is primarily for drilling , and a screwdriver is for tightening/loosening screws ; there are also "drill-drivers" that do both.
Purchase strategy: if you're going to do a little bit of everything, buy a multi-purpose drill/driver (versatile). If you're going to drill concrete frequently, upgrade to a hammer drill (see cluster 1).
2) Torque (Nm): the number that matters in screwing
Torque (Nm) indicates how much force the machine can apply when tightening. To understand the real scale, Makita presents drill/drivers with very different torques depending on the range, for example:
-
a model with 64 Nm (professional/versatile use)
-
another with 110 Nm (more power for demanding tasks)
How to choose (rule of thumb):
-
Furniture assembly, lightweight bushings, short screws → Moderate Nm reaches
-
Long screws, hardwood, demanding fasteners → more Nm helps (and avoids "braking").
3) Clutch (positions): the control that prevents damage
The clutch allows you to limit torque to avoid stripping the screw head and to protect materials (MDF, particleboard, drywall). Makita describes models with 21 clutch positions for fastening control.
Buyer's tip: more positions = more fine-tuned control (great for those who assemble a lot of furniture).
4) 2-speed (manual transmission): why this really matters
Makita explains the logic in a straightforward way:
-
High speed for fast drilling in light applications.
-
Low speed for heavy-duty applications requiring high torque.
That's exactly what the customer wants: to drill fast when they can, and to have power when they need it.
5) 10 mm vs 13 mm chuck: when does it make a difference?
A 13 mm chuck is common in more versatile tools and allows you to use larger drill bits. You can find 13 mm quick-release chucks in Portugal with this explicitly indicated.
(In the shop, this is a frequent question: "Does drill bit X fit?" — and the chuck solves that.)
6) Percussion drill: useful, but not a "hammer drill"
Bosch DIY explains that in a "pure" drill bit, the shaft is fixed, providing better precision (useful for metal); while in a hammer drill , the shaft is more "mobile" due to the mechanism, and the rotational precision is not the same—but you get percussion and, in many cases, more rotation for materials like stone.
Translation: Percussion helps in lightweight masonry, but it is not a substitute for SDS in hard concrete and repeated drilling.
7) The "combo" that sells the most (and gives the least return)
For a house in Portugal (apartment + minor renovations):
-
Cordless drill/driver (2 speeds + clutch)
-
Drill bit kit (wood/metal/masonry)
-
Bit set (PH/PZ/Torx)
-
(Optional) Impact driver if you work with many long screws (see cluster 3)
Final checklist (purchase in 30 seconds)
-
Am I going to drill and screw? → drill/screwdriver.
-
See torque (Nm): 64 vs 110 Nm shows real differences in force.
-
Clutch with multiple positions (e.g., 21) for control.
-
2 speeds (high for drilling, low for power).
-
Use a 13 mm chuck if you are going to use larger drill bits.
FAQ
Does more volts mean more power?
Not always. For screwing, torque (Nm) and the transmission are very important (there are 18V models with very different Nm values).
Is percussion mandatory?
Only if you're going to be drilling masonry frequently. For hard concrete and repeated use, SDS is more suitable.