Monitor and TV mounts: how to choose the best one without making a mistake.

Buying a TV mount or monitor arm seems simple… until you get home and discover that: the VESA pattern doesn't match, the wall can't support it, the cable is stretched, or the height is uncomfortable for your neck. This guide is for choosing the right one the first time , focusing on Portugal: measurements, compatibility, ergonomics, and safety.

The idea is simple: the right mount is one that combines VESA compatibility + weight + wall/table mounting + daily use (work, gaming, movies).


1) Start with the basics: what kind of support do you need?

For monitors (PC)

  • Table arm (articulated/gas-lift) : better for ergonomics and for saving desk space.

  • Fixed table stand : simple, stable, but with fewer adjustments.

  • Wall mount for monitor : useful on small desks or in clean setups.

For TVs

  • Fixed (ultra-thin) wall mount : Ideal for TVs placed close to the wall, especially when you always view them directly from the front.

  • Tilt mount : useful when the TV is positioned a bit higher, to correct the angle.

  • Articulated support (full motion) : rotates and moves closer/further away — ideal for corners or rooms with multiple viewing points.


2) VESA: the #1 compatibility (before looking at price)

Most modern monitors and TVs use VESA (a standard for holes on the back of the screen).

VESA mounts on monitors (most common)

Small monitors and TVs typically use VESA MIS-D , with 75x75 or 100x100 mm dimensions.
Additionally, the MIS-D typically uses M4 screws for mounting it to the monitor.

VESA on larger TVs

Large TVs typically fit VESA MIS-F , with hole patterns in 200 mm increments (e.g., 400x200, 600x400, etc.).

How to measure VESA (without complicating things):

  1. measures the horizontal distance between the centers of the holes (mm)

  2. measures the vertical distance (mm)

  3. You have the format: e.g., 100x100 , 400x400 , etc.

Important tip: if your TV/monitor doesn't have VESA mount (some ultra-thin models), a VESA adapter may exist, but it's not always worth it (it can limit adjustments and increase leverage/weight).


3) Weight and maximum load: safety before aesthetics

All reputable supports indicate the maximum load (kg) and inch range. The rule is:

  • Choose media with a capacity exceeding the actual weight of the screen (ideally with a margin).

  • Don't ignore the screen weight: large TVs vary greatly depending on the model.

Attention: "holds" doesn't mean "holds forever." The support and fastening need to be correct, especially with articulated supports (they create more force on the wall).


4) Monitor ergonomics: height and distance that prevent neck pain.

If the stand is for work/PC, ergonomics is what most impacts your daily life.

  • Recommended distance : generally 50 to 100 cm (20–40 inches) from the eye to the screen.

  • Line of sight : a comfortable position places the screen approximately 15° below the horizontal (preferred viewing zone).

What this means in practice (quick setup):

  • Sit up straight, back supported.

  • Place the monitor at an arm's length (approx.)

  • Adjust the height so as not to lift your chin or bend your neck.

Here, an articulated arm (especially a gas-powered one) is very helpful: you can raise/lower it in seconds, bring it closer in meetings, move it away for writing, and free up desk space.


5) TV comfort: height and viewing distance

Ideal height (TV on the wall)

A simple and widely used guideline by mount manufacturers: the TV sits best at eye level (or slightly below) when you are seated , often in the range of ~105 to 152 cm from the floor (to the center of the screen), depending on the sofa and the size of the TV.

Distance (so as not to strain the eyes)

For film/series, RTINGS summarizes a "science-based" foundation using recommendations such as:

  • SMPTE : at least 30° field of view (baseline)

  • 40° is the maximum recommended temperature for the most immersive experience.

This helps determine if a 55", 65", or 75" sofa is appropriate and how far away it should be.


6) Wall and mounting: where many people go wrong (and then blame the support)

Brick/concrete wall

It's the "easiest" option for TV, but with a golden rule: fix it to the brick , not to the plaster/mortar between the bricks, because the brick holds better.

Pladur/drywall (plasterboard)

Here you need to be more careful. You have two options:

  1. Fixing to the structure (studs/uprights) — always the best option whenever possible.

  2. Use bushings specifically designed for the material (e.g., "Molly" type), respecting the load capacity.

Two important warnings:

  • In drywall, each hollow anchor should be sized as if it had to support the entire weight (don't assume that "several weak anchors add up").

  • Mounting a TV on plasterboard can be safe if you use appropriate anchors and respect the weight/compatibility of the mount.

When to avoid drywall “at all costs”:

  • Large TV + heavy articulated mount + wall without good structure.
    In this case, it's better to choose another wall, reinforce it, or use a support designed for the situation.


7) Media Types: Which to Choose (Quick Guide)

Fixed mount (TV)

  • best for a “traditional” room

  • slim profile, clean look

  • fewer adjustments

Tiltable (TV)

  • It's great if the TV is positioned a little higher.

  • Reduces glare and improves angle.

Articulated (TV)

  • ideal for corners and various places

  • requires more robust mounting (lever on the wall)

Monitor arm (desk)

  • Adjust height/distance quickly (ergonomics)

  • Options: clamp (edge ​​clamp) or through hole (grommet)

  • Pay attention to the supported weight range (gas-assisted lift arms have a minimum/maximum range).


8) Screws and spacers: small detail, expensive mistake

  • VESA MIS-D monitors often use M4 .

  • TVs vary more (screw size and depth). The mount usually comes with a kit, but check the manufacturer's manual .

Safety rule: screws that are too long can damage the screen internally. If you need spacers, use the correct ones.


Shopping checklist (copy and use)

  1. VESA screen resolution (e.g., 100x100 / 400x400)

  2. Screen weight + margin

  3. Support type: fixed / tilt / articulated / table arm

  4. Wall type (brick/concrete vs. drywall) and proper fastening.

  5. Height and distance (monitor: 50–100 cm; TV: eye level + comfortable distance)

  6. Cable management (trays, clamps, slack for movement)

  7. For articulated doors: confirms space to "open" without hitting furniture.


FAQ

What is VESA and why is it mandatory?
It is the hole pattern (mm) that ensures compatibility between the screen and the mount. Standard monitors: 75×75/100×100 (MIS-D). Larger TVs: MIS-F with larger patterns.

Can I mount a TV on a drywall wall?
It can be safe if you use appropriate anchors and respect weight/compatibility—ideally fixing it to a structure. In drywall, don't underestimate the capacity of the anchors: they are correctly sized.

What is the best distance from the monitor for working?
A common reference point is 50–100 cm . Adjust according to screen size and visual comfort.

How high should I place the TV?
Generally, the screen should be at eye level (or slightly below) when you are seated; typical references are between 105 and 152 cm from the floor to the center of the screen, depending on the environment.